It all started with the realization that I had to do it alone. This is a story that I haven’t been able to tell in its entirety yet, and it’s close to two years ago now. This, here will be an attempt on my part to write about the journey that I made in June of the year 2018, a journey about which I have written two blogs already ( from which I will quote freely ) .
It was the second semester of my third year in college, ending in two months. A month of preparation and practicals, and a month of examinations. I had to have something to look forward to after the exams. Something to pull me through the couple of months. So I planned a trip to Manali and a tentative extension to the Spiti Valley.
I booked tickets from Delhi to Manali online on the HPTDC website. The Volvo bus left the Himachal Bhavan at Mandi House at 6.30 in the evening. It is a 550 km, 14 hour bus ride. Back then, I wasn’t much for conversations, even less than now. So I had perked up to have the seat beside me empty, until a guy boarded the bus at the last moment. I didn’t really talk with him until afterwards.
I had been looking at the cars pass the bus, going towards where I’d come from. A blur of headlights on highbeam and the streetlights of GT Road. Our first rest stop was at a big dhaba/hotel in the outskirts of Chandigarh.* I will have to look at the photos and my Google map Timeline for details. It was around 10 at night and I ate the food mother had packed for me, and a Snickers bar. Walked around a bit, got some breeze in my hair and sat right back in my seat. I still hadn’t spoken to the man beside me. We left the place in half an hour, I texted a while, wrote in my notebook and made some video clips. I had grand plans of making a vlog.
*It was the Motel Golden Saras in Kurukshetra
I have picked up my pen to write for pleasure again. A semester had intervened in between. My writing seems stilted to me, my thoughts disjointed. Still, I’ll have to write to get over the debris blocking the flow. I am on my way to Manali, and then hopefully, beyond, to the Spiti Valley, a solo trip. And I’m unsure whether to rejoice in my solitariness, or feel sad about my loneliness. And I realize it completely is my choice. I will have decided by the end of this 14 hour bus ride, surely …
… so many people to observe. Co-passengers, people in passing cars, truck drivers. So many different lives. Wouldn’t it be interesting to get to talk to them all, for even 5 minutes? Get them to talk about their lives till you met them? Might help you get your own life into perspective. Not a complete perspective, but at least wider than the current one, maybe?
~ 4 kilometers closer to the sky
The bus had been running for a while now. Long enough that we had all napped after the slight dinner, and woken up to trucks passing us downhill and us overtaking trucks and cars on our superior Scandinavian engine. The mountainous roads had woken us all up, and slowly, there were conversations springing up. We twisted and turned up the foothills, and also in our seats.
Humans are a cruel lot. How they’ve kept on chipping away at the surface of the Earth. They haven’t even slept nights since they can control light. Toiling, toiling away at their own destruction. Accelerating towards a fall that’ll just about wipe them off.
There’s an almost full moon shining through the bus windows, mist over the foothills. Or is it just smoke? Ghoulish humans driving trucks and buses all over the once virgin mountain forests. Abuse. Abuse of our existence. Abuse by our own efforts, because we don’t know when to stop. Where do we end? When are we ending?
~ 4 kilometers closer to the sky
Then our second toilet stop at a dhaba/cafe where I had coffee, and watched the pre-dawn mist cover us and the tress and the air itself in a mystic blue light. Everyone had a spring in their step and a camaraderie, now that we were in the Himalayas, a curious energy flowed through us. We were looking very much forward to the coming day. I popped back into my seat, and finally then did I talk to the man beside me. John was from Goa, and he owned a business. He asked if I was planning to make a vlog out of the videos I was making, and I hope I do, and he does see it. Then with dawn creeping up on us, and the sky turning orange with the Sun still not out over the cliffs, I went and sat beside and with the driver, right at the front on the steps leading to the cabin, and I looked at the road looming from the wide-spanning windshield. From that view, I welcomed the day.
In the misty blue and grey of dawn we climbed with the Beas and its tributaries beside us, turning in its rocky sides, boulders strewn and the waters choppy and blue-grey and green. The road passes by the confluence of the Parbati and the Beas, on its way to Kullu from Bhuntar. Crossing Kullu, the higher Himalayas had well and truly started and the Sun had peeked from between the pine forests, shining on the camp grounds and the churning waters of the river sparkled and blinded us watching from the windows, as we passed through the numerous villages and towns before Manali.
A father and his two kids got off at the YHAI Base Camp at Deo Tibba by the Beas River, and then it was straight on to Manali. But, lest it slip my mind, I cannot but mention the goats and the goatherd. I will never know now from where they came, or what there destination was, but there were suddenly scores of goats and lambs on the road, furry little creatures, with knobbly horns, and a springy gait. Looking at the bus, and not caring to move from its path until the herder told them to, with slight gestures and a long stick. I was to encounter herds like this many a time on this trip, but this was the first, and it was a great and innocent joy to look at the wobbling heads of the kids and the wise shake of the elders.
I reached the Manali Volvo Bus stand slightly after 8 in the morning. This is where I end this part of my story, what I got up to after I disembarked, and how I spent my day, I will write about all that in the next post. Until then, enjoy this and the first of the three videos I will upload on my YouTube channel by way of recounting my travels.
Vlog link : https://youtu.be/l62-olDx-40